Harrier build notes

 

  It's exciting to be at the start of a model's life, I thought it might be useful if I started to make some notes on the Harrier build.  The general construction goes along the same lines as the Willow 2 and SOR models.  There have been several improvements in model construction and design- speeding up the build and progressing the final model.

Wings

  The wing assembly is very straight forward.  The horns are supplied separately and these are glued into the wings, This gives you the opportunity to fit the horns and clevis’s flush to the wing skins.  I have used 2 and 3mm clevises for this in the past- they all work very well. There is enough room to fit the drive system of your choice, I know that I am getting old in my build techniques.



  The holes in the wing for servos have are large enough to help fit ball-raced servos frames.  I’ve been using King Max servos and their frames.  The fit in the Harrier is excellent and the servos have proved to be fast, reliable and slop free, for the money I’m really happy with the servos.

 

Fuselage

  The Harrier fuselage assembly has been made very straight forward thanks to the moulded tray.  This fits the servos, switch and ballast tube.  As it does not arrivet fixed, making the cuts for the fittings is very simple and safe away from the rest of the fuselage.  it also makes threading those servo wires much more straight forward.


  The Ballast tube will slide in place once the servo tray is fixed.  I glue this in place using epoxy and chopped mat.  I have found that I need to make a hole for the lock nut to recess into.  A final and possible over kill is to fit a block of wood between the ballast tube and top of the fuselage.

  Like all the models I have worked on with Zhou, the ballast tube takes 19mm chrome shower rail perfectly.  The fuselage ballast tube takes over 1.2kg of lead and has always been more than enough for me!

  The back of the fuselage is fully enclosed.  Before starting to fit the tail, the 5mm carbon rods need to be fitted and fixed.  The easiest way to do this is to drill through the fuselage so that the 5mm rods span the rear of the fuselage.  This makes for an excellent tail fix as well as adding further strength to the fuselage.

   Be careful not to snag the push rods with the 5mm tail joiner.  It should slide by nicely when everything is together but taking the rods out to have another go after you have glued them in is not easy.

   You can see where a slot has to be cut in the fuselage to allow the push rods into the fuselage.

 

 The back of the Harrier is a tight fit but full size clevises can fit. You can see where I opened up the back of the fuselage slightly for the clevises to move more freely.  This helps you to make the the copper rods a little longer and help the elevator gearing on you servos.



Settings

  These are still a work in progress and I will change them as I learn.  Especially with the aileron movement, these can be cranked up for faster response with no danger in flight.

                Aileron up 10mm down 6mm

                Flaps up 3mm down 2mm

                Snap flap down 2mm

 

                Elevator up/down 6/7mm measured at the root

 

CG 100mm

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